Senegal's Street Boys

West Africa Trip Report #4

Taliban!

What sorts of images and emotions does that word generate for you?  Fundamental Islamic extremists? Dangerous Afghan radicals? Suicide bombers? It did for me until I learned that the word is also associated with one of the worst social tragedies in the country of Senegal.

Talibés street boys in Dakar, Senegal

Taliban comes from the Arabic word talib with simply means student or disciple, referring to boys or young men who are trained in a Koranic school led by an Islamic teacher. Whereas Middle Easterners added their own ending to the word to create taliban, in West Africa, they did the same thing and today call the boys talibés.

But, the talibés of Senegal are a far cry from the radical guerillas of Afghanistan. Instead, they are homeless, malnourished, street-kid beggars who barely eek out an existence in the cities of this country. The estimate made in 2008 puts them at more than 100,000 across Senegal.

For centuries, the tradition in Senegal has been to send boys off to Koranic schools for religious education. The idea is that a wise Imam teaches them all they need to know to become good Muslim citizens. But thanks to their African heritage, these teachers, called marabouts, are more of a combination of witchdoctor with Muslim cleric. Resembling the character of Fagin in Oliver Twist, the marabouts send out the talibés to beg, steal and cheat folks on the streets all day long in order to bring back a few coins, sugar cubes or crackers. With barely a shower a month and never a chance to wash their clothes, this ragged army of hungry and abused boys is one of the saddest realities in Senegal today.

Bruno Camara in front of the drop-in center

That is why one of the ministry endeavors we have been visiting here has been so impressive. As missionaries with the Bethany Mission from Brazil,  Bruno and Celene Camara have been working for years in Dakar, Senegal trying to find practical ways to address the plight of the talibés. Starting first with a drop-in center, they created a place where street boys could come, play games, get a shower, learn to read and write, and even get their clothes laundered. Building on that, they now have opened a traditional Brazilian churrascaria barbeque  restaurant  where older talibés boys can learn how to work and earn a living.

Enjoying lunch at the churrascaria restaurant

We enjoyed a fabulous Sunday lunch at the restaurant,  feasting on slices of succulent beef, pork, marinated chicken, and chorizo sausage. In between bites, I dusted off my childhood Portuguese to chat with Bruno about how his ministry has grown. “At first, we just offered the boys breakfast and tried to teach them Bible verses,” he said. “Then as we added more spiritual and academic training, we wanted to offer the boys something more practical that would ultimately lead them off the streets and allow them to hold a real job. That’s when we thought about starting this restaurant.”

Today, the chrrascaria restaurant  employs fourteen former talibés and have already placed dozens into full-time jobs around town. Meanwhile, the Dakar drop-in center impacts just under 1000 street boys a year, many of whom give their lives to Christ as a result of the caring ministry.

“If all goes well and we get the needed funding,” Bruno continues, “we hope to open a new center and restaurant up country in the city of Thiés. Our hope is to do this in partnership with the Inter Senegal Mission, which has a similar objective to reach the talibés of Senegal.”

Street kids having fun at the drop-in center

I’m not sure which has given me more satisfaction—hearing this heart-warming story of making an impact in the lives of the talibés of Senegal, or having my stomach full of the tasty fare from the churrascaria! But I give praise to God for placing visionary folks like Bruno and Celene in a place like Dakar where they are truly bringing real hope to a generation of boys who otherwise would have none.

Under His wings,

Jon

 (To read more about the talibés, click on this link to an excellent article by the Christian Science Monitor: http://www.csmonitor.com/The-Culture/2008/0915/a-senegalese-beggar-unmasked)